Last night Funkz and I pulled the head and I removed the intake cam and all the hardware. Luckily, I noticed the intake valves weren't seated very well from the rebuild. So, a tap with the rubber hammer solved that. A day of brainstorming gave me the idea to manually rotate the exhaust cam. Using an old cam chain, I rotated the cam while Funkz held down the head. We got it spot on, then installed the intake cam. Both are aligned properly. We'll be hitting the shop again tonight, then a long day on Saturday.

The whole gummed up crankcase and difficulty setting the alignment is actually a blessing in disguise. If it wasn't for that, I never would have noticed those valves weren't seated. Imagine the damage!

Hopefully my Dyna ingition will be here soon and I really need that master link. I'm thinking about dropping the cash for the Dyna coils. Might as well upgrade it all while I'm at it! Anyone have experience with those? I've also heard that certain car coils will work but I haven't found any hard evidence.

1 comment:

Surly said...

The coil deal is all about the impedance. Certain Dyna's will work with stock coils which are a certain impedance. The more high-end Dyna's work with coils that have a different impedance. Absolutely do not use the wrong impedance coils or you will let the smoke out of your Dyna. Email me for the link to a place that sells the ignitions cheap. I'm debating about springing for one myself. As for car coils, any coil that has the proper number of leads, is for the correct voltage and has the right impedance will work. I used Bosch "blue" coils on my RD350. The stock coils produced about 9000 volts and the Bosch ones put out about 40000! They are the coil of choice for hot rod (air-cooled) Volkswagens.