Irbit Express: We all fall down sometimes...

 With a free evening, I decided to tackle the rear wheel swap and a few other items from my To Do list. Since my scrawny arms can't seem to get the Ural up on the center stand, I used the jack that I have stashed in my under tub tool box. Using the center stand as a jack point, I got the bike lifted up and started following the instructional video. Like I did with the Hurricane, and the Ducati, I used the bike tool kit. As I pulled the rotor off the pusher wheel, I noticed one bolt was much more difficult to remove than the others.  So, a ham fisted previous owner chewed up some of the threads. Thankfully, I still have my handy old Harbor Freight tab/die set and managed to clean up both the bolt and the hole. 

All was going well...until I put too much forward pressure on the bike and it rolled off the jack. In my many years of wrenching, I have NEVER had a vehicle fall of the jack (because I freaking used jack stands, except for this time) but today was my day.  

So, now I had a new challenge to tackle. I wish I would have gotten pictures of how I managed to get the bike back up and on stands.  I managed to lift the bike from the sidecar frame, then got a scissor jack on the bottom frame, between the engine and the left exhaust. However, I couldn't get the leverage using the jack wrench. As I laid under the bike, sweating and thinking, I came up with the idea of using my drill with a 3/8 socket adapter, and used a socket to (slowly) turn the jack, and then raised the floor jack, rinse and repeat until I had the bike high enough to get 2, yes 2, jack stands under the bike.  So, with the additional support, and the front brake secured, I was able to get the spare wheel installed without further issue. 

With that task complete, I moved on my next mods. I've been taking the Ural through the drive thru at various fast food places and shoving my drink into the spokes of the spare wheel doesn't work all that well. So, I decided my rig needed a cup holder! 

I didn't want to drill any new holes in the tub, and I thought about mounting it on the fuel can holder but I didn't feel like doing that either.  So, I used one of the tonneau cover mounts and a longer bolt. 

Next was new straps for the tail bag I bought to help keep my oldest stable on the bench seat since my two kiddos refuse to ride in the tub together.  Granted, it is a pretty tight squeeze, so I get it.  This is the second bag I bought for this purpose.  The first was larger than I expected, this one is prefect, except for the straps which were sewn in an H pattern and needed to route under the seat.  When I don't have the bag on, I don't want straps flopping around and they're a pain to remove. So, I ordered some bulk nylon webbing and made my own straps with loops to go around the frame rails.  They aren't pretty, but they are sturdy and will work fine. 

The next task is to change the tire and tube on the spare wheel, as well as clean up and check the spokes. I'll replace them if I can find the right size. 

Stay safe out there (comrades)! 

Irbit Express: Trunk for your trunk!

 The Gear Up has a tool storage tray under the seat in the tub. However, not much beyond the factory tool roll fits in there, and if the tub is loaded up, it's not easy to access. While digging through Ural content on YouTube, I found a video of a guy who added an ammo can on the bottom side of the back of the tub. With this idea in mind, I set out to find a modern plastic surplus ammo can that would fit.  

Eventually, I found the perfect container. It's from a Bradley (I believe) for 25mm linked ammo, and opens from either end.  With the can in hand, and a few trips to the hardware store, I was ready to drill more holes in my new bike. Using the scissor jack I ordered for the Ural, I placed the can where I wanted it to live, I drilled holes downward from inside the tub, through the ammo can.  Using some flat steel stock, I made braces to sit inside the tub to help distribute the weight.  

My initial plan was to use silicone sealant on all the bolts, but instead, I opted for rubber washers under large fender washers. That's the same process I used (and some of the same hardware) on my Hurricane. 

The weight is nice and low, and it holds all my tools (tool roll, jack/handle, socket bag, and tire spoons) in a spot that's easy to access.  I know it decreases the rear clearance but I don't plan on doing any crazy off roading. Although, a quick disconnect system would be a fun project. 

Stay safe out there (comrades). 

Irbit Express: GETTA GRIP!

 From the very first test ride, I knew the factory bars were going to have to get binned.  Cruiser style bars with a weirdly angled pull back that made my wrists ache, and thin grips that I hated.  Besides the Ducati, all of my bikes have had dual sport style bars. So, I ordered a set of Tusk ATV Sport bars, Rox Pivoting 2" Risers, and scored a great deal on a set of Oxford Adventure Heated Grips. 

With a evening suddenly free this past Saturday, I planned to knock out all these upgrades. However, I ordered the wrong size Rox Risers and the new set wouldn't be delivered until mid-week.  I made some calls around to local dealerships but no one had anything in stock. So, I ordered another set from the A to Z delivery service (albeit of a lesser quality). Since they wouldn't arrive until Sunday, I decided to just install the bars and grips, and add the risers later if I needed them. 

Ural has a great motorcycle channel with a big library of "How-To" videos from David. Using the gas tank removal video I set out on my maiden voyage into disassembling the Gear Up.  The tank was extremely difficult to remove, as well as the fuel line from the pump. Maybe it was user error, maybe it was the gas fumes distorting my brain. Because, of course I spilled an incredible amount of gas. I couldn't find a long enough section of fuel line for proper draining. Eventually I got all the lines disconnected, fuel drained out and was ready to work. 

Now that I had clear access to the backbone of the frame, I re-routed the winch wiring, routed the wiring for the heated grips, cleaned up all the zip ties, and set out to swap the bars and grips. It's an easy process, and I even drilled out a hole for the mounting post on the throttle side control set. No more grinding them off and dealing with rotating controls, like an amateur. I plan on installing the single side mount handguards from the CBR600F, so on the throttle side, I moved the tube / control set in enough to allow about 3mm of bar to extend past the throttle tube. This will keep the grip from dragging. Otherwise you may end up with an unexpected a DIY throttle lock / cruise control. 

The Oxford Grips have a low voltage / running bike detector, so no need to do my usual relay installation. Everyone seems to have their own way to install/secure new grips but my method is hair spray! You need the strongest hold you can find, like 80's big crimped goth hair strong.

Zip tie and scrap wood to the rescue!

New bars, no risers. Felt good, but low.

New bars, plus risers. Feels great!

Pretty crowded but I made it work.

I'm not 100% happy with the controller mount but it works. The gold bolt mounting the controller is from my stash of spare Ducati hardware! This bike has bits from both the Duc and the Honda.

Grrrrrrr! I opted for a more comical design than the normal tiger shark teeth.

I took the rig out for a quick errand, and the new bar/riser/grip combo feels so much better. It's easier to control on the lunar surface of the backroads around my compound. I have more "torque" on the bars, and the thick grips feel much better on my mitts. After having not one, but two hand/finger injuries last year, I learned how important the the thickness of a gripped item can be. 

At the request of my youngest, I also installed an "aircraft" seat belt after riding on some very rough roads. The previous owner used mismatched hardware sizes, and eyebolts that were about 2"/50mm too long, plus, no rubber sealing washers between the hardware and tub. It was more of a challenge to remove those damn eyebolts than it was to install the winch bar. 

Much better! Reused some tie-down points from the Hurricane to use for dog tehters.

New tail art decal, and a wooden handled shovel to really add to the military feel. 

Couldn't resist adding my favorite sticker. Yes it's crooked, no, I don't care.

The only remaining mods are a storage box under the rear of the tub for a small scissor jack, and my tools, and some skid plates. It's not like there are performance upgrades for the old Russian Iron. One free evening, I plan on going over all the fasteners, checking the spokes, and just giving it a good once over.  The pusher (rear driven wheel) is getting close to retirement. I'll swap over the spare wheel, and change the tire and check the wheel. I've never changed a tubed tire on a motorcycle, should be a learning experience. 

Stay safe out there comrades.

Project Odd Duc: The Oil Pipeline

 One of the ugliest spots on my bike are the oil cooler lines.  They aren't the only rusty spot, but the most visible, sticking out like a sore thumb.  Last year, maybe the year before, I got a set of new old ones from eBay and intended to swap them out with the next oil change.  But, there they sat on my messy work bench, stuffed in a box with other Duc odds and ends.  

Recently, I started cleaning up my work space and bought a second tool box so I could fully separate all my SAE and Metric tools.  The Metric went into my fancy new box, and the barely used SAE and specialty tools stayed in the old Craftsman. I still need to address the other cabinet, but those drawers are overflowing, so a larger one is the only fix. While cleaning up the rest of the clutter, I found the oil cooler lines and decided now was the time. 

Soooo much better!

After a general application of PB Blaster and some soak time, the old ones came off without issue. However, the vibration dampeners tore apart when I tried to remove the cooler side connections.  Luckily, I found a set on Amazon and they should be here any day.  I ordered 2 sets so I could keep a spare. With older bikes, that's generally a good idea.   Sometimes, it's the only option, like when I had to order the vacuum port o-rings for the Hurricane. I got them from a manufacturer and could only get them in a large quantity. 

Oil loss was about 4oz not counting what soaked into the headers.

Much better!

There is plenty of other rust to tackle, like the crusty header pipes but that's off season work, along with those pesky leaking head o-rings. Maybe I'll add another bike to the garage this year, so the Duc can be down for extended service and clean up? 

Stay safe out there!

Project Odd Duc: Busting Ghosts and Gremlins

 Well, I certainly learned a lot about carbs over the last week.  As mentioned previously, the H cylinder was barely running during the idle circuit but operated fine over about 1500rpm.  I swapped the coils, the ignitors, tested the pick-ups, and replaced the plugs.  No change.  Then I balanced the carbs again. Nothing.  Pulled the carbs, cleaned again, and cleared passages with compressed air.  Verified my jets, checked all o-rings, and the diaphragm.  Still wouldn't run on the H cylinder only. 

Once again, using some random part I saved, to plug the crank case breather hose inlet.

I decided to keep the oil separator box, and just add a breather.

I decided to broaden my web searches and start reading about the mixture screws since it was the only thing left to adjust. Eventually found a few posts on Triumph Rat regarding enrichening the carb until the idle starts to drop, then leaning out a bit.  Interesting....

See, all my previous bikes that actually ran, were inline four cylinders and I always set them back to factory mixture settings assuming they need to be the same.  Well, that's just not the case.  I fired up the Duc, enrichened the H cylinder carb and I'll be damned, it worked.  I could pull the plug wire from the V cylinder and it ran!  I threw in some fresh plugs and went out for a ride.  

Afterwards, the plug on the H cylinder looked about perfect, but the V plug was a bit rich, so I leaned it out about a quarter turn.  I also noticed I have leaky valve stem seals.  While that is supposed to be a quick and relatively easy job, it will have to wait until I pull the engine and do all the top end seals. 

The other day, I reached out to my friend in CT, aka Mr. Wizard and asked for his input on what I had learned about mixture screws and if them being at different ratios was indicative of a carb issue. He said, most multi-cylinder bikes actually rarely have them all at the same setting! *MIND BLOWN* I guess my inline fours were just compensating enough that I never noticed.  Crazy. 

Ride to eat, eat to ride.

Never stop learning, and stay safe out there. 

Product Review: VHT Nite Shades Spray on Tint

 I had been rolling around the idea of ordering a tinted windscreen for the Ducati but they're a bit pricey when they pop up on eBay, and typically arrive from overseas adding to the overall cost.  My original DIY idea was to use something like Plasti-Dip, then I found the VHT Nite Shades spray on tint, typically used for tail lights.  A local auto parts store had one can left, $25 later my project had begun.  

Surface prep is the key, and while I know that fact, sometimes my eagerness overrides it.  I did clean the inside of the windscreen prior with window cleaner and let it dry fully.  But a few wipe downs with alcohol would have been a good second step.   

The application isn't much different than using any other rattle can paint.  Thin layers, with time to dry between (approx 10 min).  It looks terrible at first, but it will get better.  To clarify, I only painted the inside of the screen. 

First coat

This blobby texture will go away.

I think I applied 5 coats total.

I let it cure for about 4 hours, then tested. It was dry to the touch and didn't peel or smudge. There are a few spots that are light than the rest, and one weird line that wouldn't coat but you can't see it from the outside. 

I'm very happy with the results, and maybe I will be able to see the dummy/warning lights during the day now. 

There are a few more reviews on the way, in the meantime, stay safe out there. 

**UPDATE**

About 2k miles later, it's still holding up pretty well.  I have noticed that it will scrape off if something rubs against it, perhaps I should have put a layer of clear coat over it? Or maybe that's an indication of poor surface prep.  Regardless, it still looks good and in conjunction with 2w bulbs for the idiot lights, I can mostly see the lights during the day.  

Project Odd Duc: Chasing Gremlins and Ghosts

 Recently, someone commented my bike smelled like it is running rich.  So after my ride, I sat and listened to the bike while it idled.  It sounded... off.  I pulled the front plug wire, minimal change.  Pulled the vertical, dead.  Well, that's not good especially since I wanted to take a multi-day trip next month.  Guess that will have to wait until next year.

After some testing, the horizontal cylinder is running at least poorly, but in order to get the bike to run on the vertical only, I have to have the RPMs above idle.  So, my first guess is the carbs are out of sync somehow, or I didn't do it properly.   If the issue persists after the synch, it could be fuel starvation on the idle circuit, or even a spark issue.  The plugs definitely look like it's running rich, or at least burning oil on both cylinders.

I'd like to rule out as many things as I can before tearing into the carbs.  However someone did mention you can clear the idle circuit by removing the mixture screw and blasting cleaner through there.  If I have to tear into the carbs again, I need to double check the float setting. 

So... the plan of action: 

1. Synch Carbs again

2. Swap Coils

3. Swap Ignitor

4. Remove mixture screw and blast idle circuit

5. Pull carbs

No real work pictures to show, so here are some from my last ride. Heated grips are working great! My new to me tank bag is working much better. However dropping the triple has messed with my posture and that will take some getting used to.   I also tinted the windscreen, but those details are to come in a specific post about that process.  Plus, there is another review on the way for a new action camera mount.  

Stay safe out there.