The factory mirrors on the Ducati 900SS look great, especially with the accordion style rubber sleeves covering all the adjustment points. But what they lack is any real world functionality. It seemed like no matter how I adjusted them, all I ended up looking at were my elbows. Like most things, as the years piled up, they began to lose their stiffness, and began to sadly sag towards the ground.
I attempted to find a suitable replacement, but none matched the correct mounting points. There were some posts about high end Japanese mirrors that would work but I'm not spending hundreds of dollars on mirrors. Most aren't even functional at highway speeds anyway.
With another pair of mirrors returned to Amazon, I started looking at bar end mirrors. I've never owned a bike with them, always opting for factory placement. But for only a bit more than I spent on these other mirrors, I could try these from KEMIMOTO.
When I received them, I pieced together the mount kits and quickly found that none fit in these clip-ons (I believe they are Woodcraft). So, I started hobbling different solutions together as noted in my "Make it Work" post.
I had to redo the mounts again, when I installed the Oxford heated grips. Eventually I found a solution, which involved printing some slightly thicker TPU tubes, a few washers, and applying some hairspray as a lube and glue. The mirrors will still pivot forward and back, if I push hard enough but beyond that, they have stayed in place since installation.
The positioning took some time to get used to, but after over 1300 miles with them, I've grown to love them. Even at highway speeds they remain clear and useful. I do wish they were a bit bigger but the size is definitely enough for safety.
I see all my bikes as utilitarian machines. The 900SS is obviously focused on sport riding but I need it to perform for all of my needs. In Peter Egan's Cycle World Review, it was stated you could you ride the 900SS all day, and that with a duffel bag strapped on the back, they toured all through the Black Hills. A sport bike that was comfortable enough for trips, but yet could unleash its potential while in the twisty bits. Sounds good to me! Now, to be clear, I've never been a sport bike guy (haven't my last 2 bikes been sport bikes?) but I have always loved this bike. Geez, sorry, didn't mean to start gushing again.
So, back to the matter at hand. When I first picked up the 900SS, I started looking at ways to mount luggage, maybe even my yellow Pelican cases from the Hurricane. Eventually I found the Hepco Becker Luggage Rack listed at MotoMachines. I was reluctant to place an order without knowing whether this was something I could actually receive if purchased. The team at MM reached out quickly and stated HB still makes this rack, but only as ordered. So it could be at least 4 weeks turn around time. I pulled the trigger in late August. Hoping it would arrive before my trip but that wasn't the case (see my Rhinowalk 20L post).
While cleaning up the garage, the big brown truck arrived and handed me a large box. I immediately knew what I was doing that day! I emptied the box of it's contents, and dug out the instructions.
This should be simple, right? Right?
Well, this complicates things.
I managed to use Google Images, which prompted me to translate the documents. It worked pretty well, with some exceptions but it was good enough to get me through the process. Overall, the installation was fairly straight forward. Like anything else, you only hand tighten each piece so you can get everything aligned as best as possible. I did have to remove the license plate mount to install the crossbar, which the instructions did not state.
Don't do this. You'd think that's how it works, but it's not.
See the stack of 3 washers on the front bolt, don't forget those.
I did need to use a little mechanical advantage to get the last bolt lined up.
After everything was good-n-tight, I put the plastic bolt caps on with
a bit of Kragle just to be sure.
I added some LED brake light strips that I had lying around.
Recycled the LED Flasher module from the Hurricane.
If I were to move or mod the rear signals, I could put my Pelican cases on there, but I think I'm going to stick with soft bags for now. Maybe use one of the yellow cases as a top box, or a small HF case? Either way, the rack is damn nice and I'm glad they still make them. To some, it may spoil the looks of the 900SS but to me, it still looks damn nice. Then again, as I said, I like Utilitarian vehicles and styling. Plus, now I can pick up the rear of the bike easily, and have a better hold when putting it up on the rear stand.
- stay safe out there and enjoy these last weeks of perfect riding weather.
For anyone interested here are the Installation Instructions in English-ish:
"Remove the seat. Remove the surrounding plastic parts. Unscrew the two rear indicators. Remove the reflectors attached to the side; they are no longer needed.
Loosen the fastening screws of the aluminum arms of the exhaust suspension and pillion footrest mount from the frame. The front lower tube struts of the pannier rack are screwed under the aluminum arms to the rear fastening. To do this, replace the original screws with the supplied M 8 * 25 Allen screws. To ensure that the arms are not installed too tightly, 3 8.4 washers are placed under each of the front fastenings. Also use the longer M 8 x 25 Allen screws supplied
for fastening.
The holes in the side tube struts are congruent with the fastenings on the frame. An aluminum spacer 18 * 7 * 25 is inserted between each as a spacer. Use the hexagon screws \ matrix 6 * 40 matrix for screwing.
The mounting bracket is positioned so that the two centrally attached tabs run over the outside of the fender and are aligned with the original indicator holes. Use the hexagon screws 8 * 20 to attach it.
The side tabs of the mounting bracket are mounted on the small rear tabs of the pannier rack (seen in the direction of travel - in front) with the carriage bolts M 6 * 16.
If HEPCO BECKER panniers are mounted with aluminum adapters, the aluminum adapters are mounted with the hexagon screws M 6 * 20 instead of the carriage bolts 1 6 * 16.
The luggage bridge is screwed directly to the existing fastening points of the pannier rack from the inside with the hexagon screws M 6 * 18.
The indicators are mounted in the last holes in the pannier rack. Push 2 washers 6.4 * 3 mm thick onto the threaded ends that will become the indicators and mount the fastening nuts on top.
Please turn
Internet: www.hepco-becker.
HEPCO & BECKER
The indicator cables are routed through the fairing at the side of the rear light. They must be extended using the cables provided.
The carrier is suitable for all HEPCO & BECKER cases and top cases, but the JUNIOR 30/40 side cases and the aluminum cases significantly restrict the legroom for the pillion passenger. For pillion use, we recommend using the Benjamin case set, contents per case approx. 28 litres. Order no. 610.220
After fitting the cases, check that the space between the bottom of the case and the exhaust is at least 20 mm.
Due to its design, the carrier can be loaded with a maximum of 20 kg."
With a big trip coming up, I needed to find a good solution for carrying my supplies. I have saddlebags (2 sets actually) but I tend to overpack when I have extra room. So, I wanted to slim my stuff down as much as possible, especially since I wasn't going to be camping. I purchased a 15L bag that was built like a tank but I needed more space than that, so I set out to find a 20L bag. I found the Rhinowalk bags on Amazon, in various sizes and decided to give it a shot.
While obviously a less expensive version of the high dollar bags sold by a brand that rhymes with Briega, the Rhinowalk 20L offers a lot of storage and usable features for a very small price tag. I picked this up for under $50. You can even get a model with yellow panels instead of black.
I put the bag through about 3 hours of riding in the rain a few weeks ago, as well as almost 1,300 miles of riding over 5 days. It definitely outperformed it's small price tag. For me, it held enough clothes and supplies for the trip, including a lightweight sleeping bag, and camp mats. I did have to lash on an extra bag to carry my shoes since I prefer not to walk around like Frankenstein's Monster while off the bike. If the weather would have been more consistent, I could have fit everything but when dealing with days that may have a 28 degree temperature swing, you have to be prepared!
I did see some strain on the extra lashing loops, but I had the external bag on there very tight. Other than that, it performed flawlessly. It took me a bit to figure out the best spots for the loop straps but once I found that, it's easy to remove and mount. I realize my bike isn't the target audience but with the straps, you should be able to mount this on any motorcycle with some creativity. I do think the straps could be a bit longer and I could see where a bike with a thicker seat may pose a challenge.
During my riding in the rain, I never saw a single leak. My gear all stayed dry, even in the zip pocket. However, I did notice you need to be careful when you lash it down as you can press the zipper down and make a nice spot for water to pool up and that would probably get you a wet pocket.
The rubberized mesh panel grips the body work/seat really well and gives you a space to dry any wet gear. I used it to hold my camp mat and inflatable pillow. I learned you better put what you need to in the mesh panel before loading the bag otherwise the grippy rubber will make it very difficult to load.
There aren't many changes I would make but here are my suggestion in case someone from Rhinowalk reads this:
1. Have each G-Hook be the opposite direction of it's partner. That way it's less likely to slip loose.
2. Beef up the buckles, or even better, use standard buckles for cross compatibility.
3. If you use the D loops for a shoulder strap and the bag is packed, the roll top buckles can pop free.
4. Add some reflective material on the sides and ends.
5. An external long pocket for a water/fuel bottle would be awesome, maybe as an accessory?
I had been rolling around the idea of ordering a tinted windscreen for the Ducati but they're a bit pricey when they pop up on eBay, and typically arrive from overseas adding to the overall cost. My original DIY idea was to use something like Plasti-Dip, then I found the VHT Nite Shades spray on tint, typically used for tail lights. A local auto parts store had one can left, $25 later my project had begun.
Surface prep is the key, and while I know that fact, sometimes my eagerness overrides it. I did clean the inside of the windscreen prior with window cleaner and let it dry fully. But a few wipe downs with alcohol would have been a good second step.
The application isn't much different than using any other rattle can paint. Thin layers, with time to dry between (approx 10 min). It looks terrible at first, but it will get better. To clarify, I only painted the inside of the screen.
First coat
This blobby texture will go away.
I think I applied 5 coats total.
I let it cure for about 4 hours, then tested. It was dry to the touch and didn't peel or smudge. There are a few spots that are light than the rest, and one weird line that wouldn't coat but you can't see it from the outside.
I'm very happy with the results, and maybe I will be able to see the dummy/warning lights during the day now.
There are a few more reviews on the way, in the meantime, stay safe out there.
**UPDATE**
About 2k miles later, it's still holding up pretty well. I have noticed that it will scrape off if something rubs against it, perhaps I should have put a layer of clear coat over it? Or maybe that's an indication of poor surface prep. Regardless, it still looks good and in conjunction with 2w bulbs for the idiot lights, I can mostly see the lights during the day.
I've had heated grips on every bike, besides my vintage Hondas. Typically, I install the cheap Kimpex set and do all my own wiring with a relay (XJ600 and the Hurricane). But this time, I dropped the coin for a set of the Oxford Vintage Style Heated Grips. I didn't feel like running all the spaghetti to a relay and distribution blocks. Plus, these include a sensor that turns off the grips if the voltage drops too low, or if the bike is shut off (after a few minutes). Installation was simple, remove old grips, run your power feed, install new grips, route wires, test, and zip tie it all.
Still so easy to work on!
I'm not a fan of this, but it's better than nothing.
Still plenty of clearance if I have to brake while at WFO (don't do that).
Even after a few seconds on high, they were getting toasty!
I skipped the supplied super glue, and went with a light amount of JB Weld.
I love the retro style!
I'm hoping to get some commutes in this week, and the morning temps have been nice and low so we'll get to see how they do.
I printed a new mount for my voltmeter, only to find out the whole thing was dead. Sad trombone. My guess is that it couldn't handle the vibrations and shook itself to death. So, I ordered a new one, along with the motocross style handguards I've been wanting. Both were cheap on Amazon, and arrived in a few days. The new voltmeter is right where I can see it, plus now includes a power off button!
The handguards took some bending to get into place and came with quite possibly the worst hardware I have ever seen. Oh well, what do you expect for under $30.
I realized I had forgotten to put an oil change sticker on one of our cars, so after I did that I had an idea. Why don't I use these for my bike? I have just shy of 500 of them, more than I'll ever use. So, use one I did.
After my ride today, I decided I should probably adjust the manual cam chain tensioner, but neither of my 16mm wrenches will fit, it's a really awkward spot and I can see why Honda moved it to the left side of the engine case on the F2 series. Eh, maybe next time.
The stock horn on most motorcycles sounds like someone is strangling a goat. The horn on my Hurricane is so quiet, it doesn't even work. After a few "I really wish I had a horn" moments on my test rides, I decided I should probably order the Denali Soundbomb Mini from Revzilla.
For most installations, this is just plug and play. However... that wasn't the case with my bike. I believe this is due to the full LED conversion and how the OEM horn shared a power feed from the marker lights. When I would press the horn button, the front marker lights would dim and the horn would go "bloop".
Before hacking into the harness, I took the horn switch part to make sure it was clean and working properly. Besides being dirty, it was working just fine.
With that checked, it was time to get cutting. I unwrapped the harness, found the Wht/Grn wire and snipped it. To test, I ran a hot lead back to my distribution block. I turned the key, hit the horn button and HONK! Damn, it's loud. With the power of honk confirmed, it was time to give it some proper connections and clean up the wiring.
This is the exact reason why I love to use power distribution blocks.
I feel bad for any future owner of this bike. So much red spaghetti.
I'm not a fan of it's current mounting location, so I'm going to try and stuff it behind the headlight bucket when I do the fork seals since I'll have that all torn apart again.
Tomorrow is surgery day for the forks. I'm prepped and ready. For once, I'm using all OEM parts and fluids!
